Love'em or Hate'em Bucks seem to get the short end of the stick no matter where they go. On our farm, however we love our boys as much as the girls.. our most popular boy being the infamous 'Duke-Bronson,' who was kind enough to provide us with the pictures below.. All joking aside, a buck is necessary if you plan on having milk, and want to avoid the hassle of stud servicing your does. But before you run out and buy a buck there are some things about them you should consider before purchasing a buck for your farm... A Buck is not just a Buck: When my parents were younger, the most valuable goat on the market was a doe.. many argue that this is still the case today and they might be right depending on the context of the conversation. However, unlike today, bucks back then were considered largely useless on the homestead except for breeding to put milk on a doe. This lead to the neglect of bucks, and fueled many of the misconceptions producers are still fighting with today. ‘Back in the Day’ if you or your neighbor had a buck, he would be passed around the community earning his keep by breeding with all the does across town. People would loan out their buck to be used for breeding just so they didn’t have to feed him that month. And the thought of the day was that 'a buck was a buck', you could practically get one for free so why pay money? The doe was all that mattered, and back then everyone knew only good does produced good milking doe kids… so it didn’t matter where the buck came from. Getting a doe pregnant was the sole purpose of any buck… bucklings- buck kids, or adult bucks were just good enough for filling the freezer. Today, however, bucks are rightfully earning their place as the MOST important member of the herd. Bucks, as it turns out, set the pace for the future generations produced in your herd. They have a much larger role to play on the genetic field for determining the inheritance of udder attachment, teat size/ placement, udder capacity and milk production than previously thought. If you want or need high production does, you need to start improving your herd with a buck who is founded in high production genetics. “Any buck will do” is not only an irresponsible stand point, but it is also reflective of a genuine lack of concern for the betterment of future herds. You may not care about your herd today, but the genetics you are passing on to other people WILL affect future genetic pools tomorrow. When breeding any breed of goat, you always want to "breed-up". Crossing excellent to fair quality does with excellent quality bucks will yield improvements in the herd. However, crossing excellent to fair quality does with a poor quality buck will always yield poorer and poorer quality animals. No matter what your life situation, or stand point on breeding goats may be, you always want to purchase or use the best quality buck you can afford. Breeding to a poor quality animal simply because you like their color or personality is not a good enough reason to use that buck in your herd. He needs to be the leading example of what your herd’s purpose will be; be the best dairy buck you can find/ best meat buck you can find etc. TIP: How to Select a Buck: When looking for a Buck to add to your breeding program you want him to be subject to the same rigors as you would when selecting a doe. Most importantly you will want to look at the udder of his mother and grandmothers to better see what his daughters will be inheriting. Assuming you are considering an adult buck, you will also want to look closely at his conformation. Young buck kids often go through many awkward growth stages, and can sometimes be difficult to judge what they will grow-up into... The buck in question though, should have a nice level top line (back), a level rump, wide hips ( from each peak of the hip bones), good-straight-long legs, a nicely blended neck, and a smooth ‘uphill’ stance. This means when he is standing his shoulders are slightly taller than his hips. And also, when viewed from behind, his hind legs should naturally fall wide apart. Having a wide ‘escutcheon’ is important so that when his daughters inherit this trait they will have plenty of room for their udders to fill in. The escutcheon on a buck is the same point on a doe. If you follow the curve of the hind legs up to the peak of where the vulva would be on a doe you will notice that instead you have a point where the testicles of the buck connect to his body. This point should be wide and form a high arching shape like a bell all the way around and down to the hooves of his hind legs. When viewed head on, you want your buck to also have a nice wide chest. His front legs shouldn’t be rubbing on one another, and you should be able to place your hand flat between his fore legs. Reviewing the conformation standards for the breed of goat you are interested in purchasing will help to further guide you in selecting a soundly built Buck suitable for adding to your breeding program. Understand, that these ‘show’ standards were not only made to help distinguish the different breeds from one another, but to also help all breeders avoid selecting traits that lead to harmful defects. Whether you are breeding your goats for meat, dairy, homesteading, or even show; you do NOT want animals with crooked arthritic legs, twisted spines, crooked jowls that cant chew food, etc. Instead, you want strong animals that will pass on strong genetics to their offspring, and that will better serve you in the future. Buck 101:Some things you should know.... Musk: Hands down the number one reason why people try to keep their bucks on the furthest most isolated corner of their property. Bucks have a naturally repulsive smelling odor that only female goats seem to appreciate. Also, unfortunately, the musky odor of the buck can taint the flavor of the milk produced by our beloved goat does. But if the smell weren’t bad enough, it’s the way the musk is applied that gets most people’s stomachs to turn inside out… Bucks liberally apply the musk to their faces, backs of their legs, and to anyone standing close by. They gargle it in their mouth, and will gleefully rub it on their owners. The source of this musk you may wonder? Well, it just so happens that the musk comes from the urine of the buck. Bucks also have glands on their heads around their horns that they use to mark their territory with pheromones.. ever wonder why your buck loves rubbing his head on everything? A buck in full rut can be quite the sight, as well as stench. An all-white buck will turn into a dingy yellowish brown monster, whose smell will carry easily up to a half-mile away in his efforts to let every doe know that he is in the neighborhood. Temperament and houseing: If narcissism, arrogance, aggression, tongue flapping, and strutting are things you look for in a man you might be a goat. But to the rest of us, these charming antics are not so charming. Especially not when a buck goes into full rut. So, here are some Buck basics... Bucks are like stallions in the horse world. They live to 'get the girls' and become sexually active as young as 8 weeks of age. Some become fertile at this time, and are capable of impregnating their young female siblings. It is because of this that bucks should either be castrated or separated into a pen with other bucks of a similar age as soon as they are able to be weaned. Very few, if any, doelings impregnated at 8 weeks of age ever survive the pregnancy, so it is to your benefit to protect your does. Bucks also love to strut their stuff, and show all the does just how tough they are. They like to rub their heads on fences, head-butt their shelters and fellow herd mates, and even on occasion prove to the humans on the property that they are top dog. Smaller sized breeds of goats are easier to contend with than a full-sized 200lb Boer buck, but that doesn’t make them any less dangerous. Changes in testosterone hormone levels contribute to the transformation that your once sweet, mild-mannered, buck undergoes as he prepares to attract and defend his does. Some bucks will ignore humans during rut, while others can be so down-right nasty that it is impossible for their owner to safely enter the pen with them. Before bringing a buck onto your property, you need to ask yourself if you truly have a need for one, and assess whether or not YOU are up to the challenge. Ask your self-- are your goats simply pets? Do you plan to breed goats? Would you be able to tolerate housing a buck separately from the rest of your does, and providing a companion for him? Are you in a neighborhood where your neighbors might complain about your animals 'smelling bad'? Could you deal with a rutty buck who wants to take his display to the 'next level' by incorporating challenging you? Understand, that there are some aggressive bucks out there, but it is equally as important to note that there are many more bucks who are just as sweet and friendly as does.. they just stink! Bucks prefer to exert their dominance over other bucks/goats to prove their position in the herd. However, if a buck has been spoiled, treated badly, rough housed with (usually in the form of humans.. usually children.. pulling and pushing on their heads/horns) then they will most certainly turn on you. This is why it is so important for a goat owner to spend time with their goats, especially their bucks. And why you must not be afraid to discipline (sometimes harshly) bad buck behavior the moment they step out of line. A buck is a more serious animal than a doe, and they need strong willed leaders to follow, who have strict unwavering ground rules to follow. And part of being a good leader is keeping your buck safe from people (even yourself) who think its funny to encourage bad/aggressive behavior. Sadly for many bucks, in order to avoid the responsibility of Buck ownership, some people opt to avoid dealing with their bucks altogether. They would rather isolate them in a tiny pen by themselves away from the herd, throw food over the fence, and never enter their pen. This is willful neglect and abuse no matter which way you want to try and slice it. Bucks in these isolated conditions are hands down the most dangerous, and almost always become human aggressive; not something you want to have on your property if you also have children around! As a result of this detrimental treatment, often times these poor bucks cannot be introduced to the herd. In their isolation, they receive little if any socialization, make up their own ‘rules’ for social interaction, generally do not know how to function in a herd, nor do they know what goat behaviors are acceptable. We need to remember that bucks are herd animals too. They have emotional needs, and mental stimulation requirements just like any other goat. Many of our goaty boys love to be pet, brushed, and doted upon just like our girls. And if it weren't for their musky odor that clings to everything they touch, you would find out rather quickly that bucks are arguably more affectionate than the does as well! Keep in mind, that in the wild they are the protectors of their families, and when they are forced into isolation it is no wonder why they become neurotic to the point that aggression develops as their frustration grows. A buck has no way of understanding WHY he can not talk to his does, or WHY you wont even give him the time of day. Bucks thrive on the companionship of other goats, but for us humans trying to regulate breeding, housing a buck with companions can be difficult. One solution to this dilemma is keeping bucks together in a buck pen. This ensures that your does are not being bred on accident, avoids musk tainted milk, avoids wethers (castrated male goats) being bullied, and keeps your boys feeling like they are still part of a herd. On our farm our bucks are kept in a buck pen across from our does so they can still visit, but unplanned breedings do not take place. We have also found that our bucks are much more calm, and do not cycle into rut as often. So, can you put wethers with bucks? You can put bucks with does, but then the question becomes should you? I would say no, as would many of the other breeders I have spoken with. Wethers are a neutral party. They are easily bullied, and yes even raped by bucks. In turn, the buck learns that he can bully and molest whoever he wants, and again develops no social manners because the wethers will not stand up for themselves. When bucks are with other bucks certain behaviors are just not going to fly, and everyone takes a turn being at the bottom of the pecking order. As an example of the differences between the way two bucks were raised; Our first buck we purchased was kept with other bucks and has great manners with the does and even humans… Our second buck however, was kept alone with wethers and thinks he can bully everyone including people—he has been learning otherwise, but his rehabilitation back into a herd has been a slow process. He is still a little ornery toward our does, doesn’t really get along with the other bucks, and unfortunately still has to be kept separate (but still sharing a fence line) from the herd unless he is being supervised. ****If its a choice between keeping a buck alone vs. giving him a wether as a companion, it is best he gets 2-3 wethers as companions. That way one isnt always being singled out and bullied. So, what about Stud Servicing?? If you only have 2-3 does stud servicing might be a viable option/alternative to Buck ownership. HOWEVER-- before taking your goats on a 'date' you need to find a reputable breeder who regularly tests their bucks for CAE/CL, AND who requires that all does coming onto their property for servicing be capable of providing a negative CAE/CL blood test within 30 days of the planned breeding. Why is this important? Because it protects YOU and your goats from sexually contracting diseases from other herds. However, these two tests will not protect your does from Chlamydia or other infections that cause abortions. Bucks can easily be carriers if they are bred to an infected doe. Brucella infections and chlamydia may not have any outward symptoms, except that fetuses are suddenly aborted at 3 months, to 2 weeks before the due date. And any doe exposed to placental materials may also become infected! So, before you go to Joe-Bob down the street to use his 'Billy' to get your 'Nanny' bred, please consider the long term health of your girls! Artificial Insemination Artificial Insemination is by far one of the safest options for breeding your does, and definitely doesn't require a buck on the property. However, it can be much more expensive to get started with than just buying a buck or two.. and because conception rates through AI are roughly 75% on goats, it probably isnt a bad idea to have a buck as a back-up. The nice thing about AI however, is that you can do it yourself. You can purchase all the supplies and equipment you need to get started, and find many excellent materials on-line to teach yourself how its done. Alternatively many vet hospitals and clinics can store semen and perform AI as well. If you have a dairy in-town, they usually have a tech who does AI, and they may be able to be hired to do a goat or two for you as well. Beside not necessarily needing a buck on the property, AI facilitates the use of genetics that might not otherwise be available to you. And gives you access to some of the top-genetics for the breed you are raising for usually less than what it would cost you to buy the buck! And you can keep semen from multiple bucks, so it really broadens the horizons for your herd when you are breeding to improve the quality of dairy animal you are breeding on your farm. Bad-BoysHow to deal with overly Human Aggressive Goats?
Dealing with a rutty buck or aggressive goat is actually quite simple... But first, lets remember to let the punishment fit the crime... Is the goat charging? Rearing up? Tossing his head at you? Pushing on you? If the buck is testing your boundaries, lightly-putting his head on you and then pushing, coming up to you and touching your hands then tossing his head to knock them away-- Saying in a firm angry voice No--then using a spray bottle or hose to squirt him may suffice. Rearing up to butt you-- a spray bottle might work too. But if it doesn't, or if the buck decides to lunge/charge--flipping him will be your best option. ** Flipping is literally what they do in goat tying. Picking up the goat, getting him off his feet, and laying him on his side on the ground. Then using your body to hold him down. For many want-to-be human bullies-- flipping works and gets the point across the first time. But if a goat needs constant flipping- this I would say is a bloodline that is not suitable for domestic living situations, and should be humanely euthanized. Why flipping works: When dealing with an aggressive goat, you do not meet the goat on his level, no kicking and no pushing back!! You are not a goat, and you are not going to win at his own game. Instead, you need to change the game. The best way to change a bucks mind about pummeling you, is to flip him and hold him down for a few moments. When you flip a goat, you are no longer on his level. You are no longer just another opponent, now you are more like a predator and have placed him in a very vulnerable position--being on the ground with a human sitting on top of you is not only uncomfortably compromising to a goats' ego--but shows the buck that you are not messing around! The other alternative is to grab a section of rubber hose to whip the goat back until it runs away from you. And from that day forward if he starts to charge, or rear up to head butt you, you yell at him “NO!” then proceed to give him the ass-wooping of his lifetime. But that is likely not going to work as you are still meeting the goat on his own terms, and 'playing' his game. And a determined buck isnt going to care about what 'tool' you are using against him, you might as well just get down on all fours and take your chances head butting him back (no, do NOT actually do that!!) It sounds cruel to the faint of heart to punish a goat physically, but if you think that your aggressive goat will stop bashing into you while you are on the ground with a broken knee you are sorely mistaken; and if you cannot justify this type of punishment for any animal that has the intent to beat you, your children, the neighbors children, or any other unsuspecting person till they’re dead, than you do not need to own a goat much less a buck! Goats can, and DO seriously hurt people! And every couple of years there is always a case of someone in the news being Killed by a aggressive goat/sheep. A Head-butting goat is NOT a game, it isn't funny, it isn't natural to do to people, and it is never OK! Even nice goats, not just frustrated-angry-hormonal-bucks, can get a wild hair toward someone they don’t like, and you will need to be prepared to protect those people from your animal. You wouldn’t let your dog attack you or some innocent bystander, so why would allow your goat do the same thing??? So how about animals who are not overly aggressive? Do you have to be as extreme for them? For animals that are normally well behaved, a firm ‘NO!’ and/or squirt with a squirt bottle of water seems to do the trick in any situation.. If the spray bottle has no effect, out comes the newspaper. A single swat accompanied by an angry ‘NO!’ gets the point across. If the behavior persists or escalates, FLIP. After a few humbling sessions most goats learn rather quickly that the insane human is not worth fighting with. And look for some other creature to bully instead. And for the few animals who are too blinded by their hormones (or past experience from previous BAD owners) to be worked with (or be around) safely, there is always freezer camp. You do not want overly aggressive goat genetics in your herd, there is no reason for it in a captive environment, and this is something no one should ever have to tolerate. Euthanasia for aggressive animals is by far the most humane option. Setting those animals aside, housing them alone, isolating them from the herd, denying them medical care because of the difficulty in handling them, selling them off to someone who will encourage that behavior and torment that animal further just to see how extreme that behavior can get, all of that is much more cruel.
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Welcome to the Suds Bucket!Adventures, Experiences, Ideas...it's all here. Archives
July 2022
Categories
All
|